I would like to lay ceramic tile on my wooden floors, would there be a problem ?
June 26, 2009
Posted in How To Lay Ceramic Tile
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June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
Why would you want to cover wood floors? That is a crime.
Tile requires a solid sub-floor, so wooden flooring is not an appropriate surface on which to lay tile.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
yes…you need to install a working surface like plywood fastened to the existing wooden floor with staples, then you can lay the tile. YOu should also check the spacing of the floor joists and you also might want to pay attention to the added load you are creating…make sure there's enough structure to hold it without excessive deflection and bouncing…that will ruin your tile job quickly. If you house was a slapped together cheaply, then you might not have the structural integrity required to add that much more weight to the floors without some deflection problems. Houses these days are built only barely to code and there's hardly any factor of safety used any more…its all about cheap and quick.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
To be specific, if you tile directly to hardwood, such as 3/4" t & g oak, you are asking for trouble. The hardwood would expand and contract too much thus making bond ineffective. After to talking to a tile wholesaler, who called a Schlueter represenative as I was in the store, even Ditra-Mat isn't that good of solution over hardwood. If not familiar with Ditra-Mat, it is a membrane that isolates subfloor movement from the tile. The rep suggested screwing or gluing and nailing 1/2" plywood to the hardwood then Ditra-Mat then tile. Well that would raise the floor up to about an inch and a half above the subfloor.
I would remove the hardwood, assuming you are talking about 3/4" hardwood. The next question is what is under the hardwood? If a 3/4" structurewood, then I would go with 1/2" Fiberrock or Hardibacker installed to manufacturers spec's. For added bonding security, you can use Durock or similiar concrete board, but I have yet to see the former fail, except for installer error. Hardibacker or similiar product is typically easier to install and less expense. You could use Ditra-Mat, it is a excellent product, but the transition from tile to hardwood would be a 1/4" or so. Doesn't sound like much, until you walk through at night with the lights out, it turns into a toe stumper. Now if you are ripping out all the hardwood, and the transition is to a thinner floor covering like carpet or vinyl flooring, then Ditra-Mat would propably be a better way to go.
Other than that, one other thing to consider. Deflection. The floor shouldn't deflect than more L/360, L being the span of the floor. Don't that let that worry you, typically code requires that, and 3/4" T&G structurewood or plywood on 2×10's with no more than a 16' span is fine. But if in doubt, you might want to check with a contactor what the deflection is.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
I installed ceramic tiles in many rooms of our home:
Board floors or laminate floors = trouble. Boards eventually will move under tiles & loosen tiles and grout. Laminate will also move under tiles plus soak up moisture. Laminate, tear it out. Board floors either tear out or plywood (or cement board) over it first. Be SURE you tighten the plywood with screws in many places of each sheet to maintain a non moving subfloor which is essential to successful tiling.
Tiles are cool/cold in winter but we have throw rugs by kitchen sink, tub, stove, etc.. They are easy to clean and do not regret the decision especially with better breathing in the house.
If I was to do it over, I would have picked a dark grout that wouldn't show the dirt as easily. Occassionally resealing the clean grout can be a pain.
Contact me if need tips on doing it yourself.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
You must have a base that does not flex.
4 inches of concrete should be firm enough for interior use; remember to cut the same amount from the bottoms of any doors.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
We replaced our carpet with ceramic tile. There was plywood under the carpet. The contractor just applied a thin layer of "tile cement" (for lack of a better term) and sanded it smooth after it dried. Then they laid the tiles. It has been there three years now with no problems. One thing you may want to consider. Tile is cold as heck in the winter but great in summer. Good luck.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
it depends on if your talking about in a wood framed house or if there is a finished wood floor . if it is a finished wood floor then you would not be able to lay over it ,mastic ( the morter for sticking the floor ) will not stick to it . it will have to come up .
now if it is a wood framed then you will probably have to lay down a sub-floor ( this requiers at min. of 1/2 plywood ) that will give you a flater more stable surfice to lay over
and when you take up a wood floor, if it has concrete underneth than just lay over it ,. make sure that it is completely clean . but when you take up the floor and you find wood then follow the afore mention preparation.
good luck
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
I tile every day of my life, and see a few legit answers.
The stability of the floor does matter, as does how you define WOOD. I've tiled over PLY often, with no issues, but wouldn't over chip board or MDF. Certianly not over a hardwood or laminate floor.
The standard now for a wood substrate is to add concrete backer board first. Obviously over a slab that isn't neccessary.
You could skim over ply first, but if you didn't get the skim coat level or smooth, the tile install might not go well. Tile over PLY for a greater chance of success, would be better over a double 3/4 substrate, which most houses never have. Certainly you'd notice any flex in the floor now, and should add more substrate.
Steven Wolf
Just my two "sense"
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
** I would think so – talk to someone at the tile shop or ring a tiler
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
no
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
Yes, the floors will warp in time because of the weight and lack of moisture/cleaning. Remove the wood floors before putting tile down and you should be all good!
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
there could be many problems when laying Cement over a wood floor. Does the floor creek and give a lot. this could cause problems with the cement and you may see the tile coming up a lot in those loose area's another thing to consider is the height of the floor. Will you have to redo other floors in order to get it to be the right height as say your bedroom, hall etc. I would think it is better to rip it up. However I have heard of it being done. again just make sure you secure loose spots where the wood could be lifting up.
Another things if the wood looks old and you want to replace it just snad it down bleach it and re coat it with a hard wood enamel finish. it will look great.
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
Watch this Utube video below,
June 26th, 2009 at 2:41 am
What you need first is called cement board and lay that down over your wooden floors. The cement board allows the cement to hold down the tiles when you apply it. Go and check at home depot or lowes or a local hardware or lumber yard and they will help you.